Dr Natalie Smith, Our people, Sociology, Gender Studies and Criminology

PGCertHighE (Otago), MA (Canterbury), PhD (Otago)

Contact details

Room 6C23, Richardson Building
Tel +64 3 479 5204
Email natalie.smith@otago.ac.nz

Natalie comes from a sociology of art and culture background. Her primary areas of research interest are New Zealand fashion design and the social and cultural factors that influence design.

She is particularly interested in the relationship between gender, work and design; craft; textile design; and the art/fashion nexus.

Natalie has a longstanding interest in arts governance and has served on the boards of several not-for-profit arts organisations in Aotearoa New Zealand.

Teaching

Supporting 100-level Sociology papers

SOCI 101 Sociology of New Zealand Society
SOCI 102 Cultural and Social Identities
SOCI 103 Crime, Deviance and Social Transformation

Publications

Smith, N. (2024, May). Finding a place for art crime in stage one criminology. Verbal presentation at the The New Zealand Art Crime Research Trust Symposium, Wellington, New Zealand. Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2024). Ironside [née Acheson], Janet Mary [Janey] (1917-1979). In D. Cannadine (Ed.), Oxford dictionary of national biography. (Online ed.) Oxford University Press. doi: 10.1093/odnb/9780198614128.013.94325 Chapter in Book - Research

Stocker, M., & Smith, N. (2024). Boty [married name Goodwin], Pauline Veronica (1938-1966). In D. Cannadine (Ed.), Oxford dictionary of national biography. (Online ed.) Oxford University Press. doi: 10.1093/odnb/9780198614128.013.110210 Chapter in Book - Research

Smith, N. (2024). Exhibition catalogue essay To unpathed waters: Meg Gallagher, OLGA Art Gallery, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Exhibition Catalogue]. Other Research Output

Smith, N. (2024). Kōrero: Ensor, Kura Te Whiria [Translation of Ensor, Kura Te Whiria]. In Dictionary of New Zealand biography: Te Ara: The encyclopedia of New Zealand. Wellington, New Zealand: Ministry for Culture and Heritage. Retrieved from https://teara.govt.nz/mi/biographies/6a3/ensor-kura-te-whiria Chapter in Book - Other

2024

Chapter in Book - Research

Chapter in Book - Other

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2024, May). Finding a place for art crime in stage one criminology. Verbal presentation at the The New Zealand Art Crime Research Trust Symposium, Wellington, New Zealand.

Other Research Output

Smith, N. (2024). Exhibition catalogue essay To unpathed waters: Meg Gallagher, OLGA Art Gallery, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Exhibition Catalogue].

2023

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N. (2022-2023). [Review of the show iD Dunedin Fashion, 31 March-1 April 2023]. Scope: Art & Design, 25, 81-86. doi: 10.34074/scop.1025017

Smith, N. (2022-2023). Q. and A. with The Chills frontman Martin Phillipps and the curators of Kaleidoscope World: Forty Years of Flying Nun Katherine Milburn and Amanda Mills. Context, 43, 145-148. [Performance/Film/Composition Review].

Smith, N. (2022-2023). [Review of the exhibition Drift]. Context, 43, 149-155. [Performance/Film/Composition Review].

Conference Contribution - Published proceedings: Full paper

Smith, N. (2023). Smoke and mirrors: Smokefree sponsorship and the reconceptualisation of New Zealand fashion design. In I. Sage (Ed.), Proceedings of the 25th International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI) Conference: Ara Honohono: Connecting Pathways. 2, (pp. 441-453). Dunedin, New Zealand: Otago Polytechnic. [Full Paper]

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2023, October). Practicing manaaki: Working with students transitioning into university in Aotearoa New Zealand and all their neuroabilities. Verbal presentation at the Neuroability Symposium, Dunedin, New Zealand.

Smith, N., & Lange, S. (2023, May). A serendipitous moment: Fashion weeks, exhibitions, publications and qualifications: Tracing the birth of CTANZ. Verbal presentation at the Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand (CTANZ) symposium: Traditions: Observance or departure, Ōamaru, New Zealand.

Smith, N. (2023, April). Smoke and mirrors: Smokefree sponsorship and the reconceptualization of New Zealand fashion design. Verbal presentation at the 25th Annual International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI) Conference, Otepoti Dunedin, Aotearoa New Zealand.

Design

Smith, N. (2023). Reflections on matriliny through pinky peach coloured glass. Exhibited at the Whakapapa, Ancestry and Contemporary Fashion Practice Exhibition, Skinner Annexe, Otago Museum, Otepoti Dunedin, New Zealand [Artwork]. [Design].

2022

Chapter in Book - Research

Smith, N. (2022). Ensor, Kura Te Whiria. In Dictionary of New Zealand biography: Te Ara: The encyclopedia of New Zealand. Wellington, New Zealand: Ministry for Culture and Heritage. Retrieved from https://teara.govt.nz/en/biographies/6a3/ensor-kura-te-whiria

Journal - Research Article

Smith, N. (2022). Collage and critical thinking: What the pop artists taught me about doing sociology. Scope: Learning & Teaching, 11, 40-47. doi: 10.34074/scop.4011007

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N. (2022). [Review of the book Dressed: Fashionable dress in Aotearoa New Zealand 1840 to 1910]. Context, 42, 104-107. [Book Review].

Smith, N. (2022). [Review of the exhibition Fashion FWD >> Disruption through design]. Context, 42, 88-94. [Performance/Film/Composition Review].

Journal - Professional & Other Non-Research Articles

Bell, V., & Smith, N. (2022). Gift: Reflections on journeys, knowledge, labour and love [Exhibition report]. Scope: Art & Design, 23, 57-67. doi: 10.34074/scop.1023018

Exhibition

Bell, V., & Smith, N. (2022, 8 May-19 June). gift. Ashburton Art Gallery, Ashburton, New Zealand. [Exhibition].

Other Research Output

Smith, N. & Bell, V. (2022). Exhibition catalogue for gift, Ashburton Art Gallery, Ashburton, New Zealand. [Catalogue].

2021

Journal - Research Article

Smith, N. (2021). "It's in a box in my wardrobe": "Re-searching" the practices of New Zealand women fashion designers. Scope: Art & Design, 21, 36-39. doi: 10.34074/scop.1021004

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2021, April-May). Oamaru's fashion entrepreneurs: Maritza boutique and the fashion vanguard. Verbal presentation at the Costume & Textile Association of New Zealand (CTANZ) Symposium: Vision: Hindsight, Foresight, Insight, Auckland, New Zealand.

2020

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N. (2020). [Review of the exhibition Sāmoa no uta (A Song About Sāmoa)]. Context, 40, 77-82. [Performance/Film/Composition Review].

2019

Chapter in Book - Research

Smith, N. (2019). Slow fashion and craft activism. In K. U. Māhina-Tua, K. Chitham & D. Skinner (Eds.), Crafting Aotearoa: A cultural history of making in New Zealand and the wider Moana Oceana. (pp. 367-368). Wellington, New Zealand: Te Papa Press.

Smith, N. (2019). New Zealand wearable art and the craft conundrum. In K. U. Māhina-Tua, K. Chitham & D. Skinner (Eds.), Crafting Aotearoa: A cultural history of making in New Zealand and the wider Moana Oceana. (pp. 322-324). Wellington, New Zealand: Te Papa Press.

Journal - Research Article

Smith, N. (2019). From formality to fluidity: Fraser Crowe, “art as fashion, fashion as art,” twenty years on. Scope: Art & Design, 2019(17), 8-16. doi: 10.34074/scop.1017001

Conference Contribution - Published proceedings: Abstract

Smith, N. (2019). Dressing down Al Shaw's anxieties: The "Kiwi bloke" in crisis in Roger Donaldson's Smash Palace. Proceedings of Millennial Masculinities: Queers, Pimp Daddies and Lumbersexuals: An International Conference. (pp. 32). Retrieved from https://millennialmasculinities.com/

Other Research Output

Smith, N. (2019). Sarah Chisnall. Retrieved from http://www.nzfashionmuseum.org.nz/sarah-chisnall/

Smith, N. (2019, November). Handcrafted wool fashion. Crafting Aotearoa, Tāmaki Paenga Hira Auckland War Memorial Museum. Retrieved from https://www.aucklandmuseum.com/discover/research/crafting-aotearoa/handcrafted-wool-fashion

2018

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N., & Bell, V. (2018). Unbound: The exhibition: Project report. Scope: Art & Design, 16, 8-15.

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Bell, V., & Smith, N. (2018, September). Unbound: The Exhibition: Contemporary reflections on the changeability of dress, bodies and sexualities. Verbal presentation at the Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand Annual Symposium: Unbound: Liberating Women, Dunedin, New Zealand.

Exhibition

Smith, N. (curator), & Bell, V. (curator) (2018, 21 September-18 October). Unbound: The exhibition. Dunedin School of Art Gallery, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Exhibition].

Other Research Output

Smith, N. & Bell, V. (2018). Exhibition catalogue for Unbound: The exhibition, Dunedin School of Art Gallery, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Exhibition Catalogue].

2017

Chapter in Book - Research

Smith, N. (2017). The modern girl: Dale Austen, Miss New Zealand, in Hollywood. In R. Bell (Ed.), New Zealand between the wars. (pp. 256-279). Auckland, New Zealand: Massey University Press.

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N. (2017). When Dreams Turn to Gold: The Benson & Hedges and Smokefree Fashion Design Awards. Context, 34, 7-14.

Smith, N. (2017). [Review of the exhibition Stone cold cuts]. Blue Oyster, 2016, 58-60.

Conference Contribution - Published proceedings: Abstract

Smith, N. (2017). iD Dunedin Fashion Week, Dunedin style and the craftivism agenda. Proceedings of the Sociological Association of Aotearoa, New Zealand (SAANZ) Conference: Respect Existence or Expect Resistance. (pp. 93). Retrieved from http://www.otago.ac.nz/saanz

Exhibition

Hammonds, L. (curator), & Smith, N. (curator) (2017, 18 March-25 June). When dreams turn to gold: The Benson & Hedges and Smokefree Fashion Design Awards 1964-1998. Dunedin Public Art Gallery, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Exhibition].

Other Research Output

Hammonds, L. & Smith, N. (2017). Exhibition catalogue for When dreams turn to gold: The Benson & Hedges and Smokefree Fashion Design Awards 1964-1998, Dunedin Public Art Gallery, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Exhibition Catalogue].

Smith, N. (2017). Nerdiah Haworth. Retrieved from http://www.nzfashionmuseum.org.nz/n/neridah-haworth/

Smith, N. (2017). Exhibition catalogue essay for When dreams turn to gold: The Benson & Hedges and Smokefree Fashion Design Awards 1964-1998, Dunedin Public Art Gallery, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Exhibition Catalogue].

2016

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N. (2016). [Review of the exhibition iD2K16]. Blue Oyster, 2015, 21.

Smith, N. (2016). [Review of the exhibition Margarita Robertson 3.33.12]. Australasian Journal of Popular Culture, 5, 220-223.

Conference Contribution - Published proceedings: Abstract

Smith, N. (2016). Gold, ash and greenstone: The Smokefree Environments Act (1990) and the rebirth of New Zealand fashion. In H. Radner & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Proceedings of The End of Fashion: An International Conference: Select Refereed Abstracts. (pp. 37). Dunedin, New Zealand: Department of History and Art History, University of Otago. [Abstract]

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2016, February). Sewing dreams into gold: The Benson and Hedges Fashion Design Awards (1964-1998). Verbal presentation at the Making Women Visible Conference: A Conference in Honour of Barbara Brookes, Dunedin, New Zealand.

Exhibition

Smith, N. (guest curator) (2016, 11 March-3 June). Fashion Rules OK. De Beer Gallery, Central Library, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Exhibition].

Other Research Output

Smith, N. (2016). Philip Shortt. Retrieved from http://www.nzfashionmuseum.org.nz/p/philip-shortt

2015

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N. (2015/2016). [Review of the exhibition The Brook Project, South Dunedin]. Context, 31, 34-39.

Smith, N. (2015). [Review of the exhibition Whetu Tirikatene-Sullivan: Travel in style]. Textile History, 46(2), 266-268.

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2015, April). The Benson and Hedges Fashion Design Awards (1964-1998): A case study in 'doing leisure' in Aotearoa New Zealand. Verbal presentation at the 14th Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand (CTANZ) Annual Symposium: Contexts of Fashion: Materiality and the Body, Dunedin, New Zealand.

2014

Chapter in Book - Research

Smith, N. (2014). Food and fashion: Establishing a critical distance from the "...mess". In P. Stupples (Ed.), Art and food. (pp. 133-145). Newcastle upon Tyne, UK: Cambridge Scholars.

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N. (2014). [Review of the exhibition Pinewood bend 2013]. Blue Oyster, 2013, 64-69.

Smith, N. (2014). [Review of the exhibition Not all white: Wedding dresses]. Context, 28, 62-65.

Smith, N. (2014). [Review of the exhibition Who opens the door]. Context, 28, 66-67.

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2014, February). Dale Austen, Miss New Zealand (1927): Our modern girl in Hollywood. Verbal presentation at the Australian & New Zealand American Studies Association (ANZASA) Conference, Dunedin, New Zealand.

Other Research Output

Smith, N. (2014). Margarita Robertson & NOM*d. Retrieved from http://www.nzfashionmuseum.org.nz/m/margarita-robertson-nomstard

Smith, N. (2014, August). 'Where dreams turn to gold': The Benson and Hedges Fashion Design Awards 1964-1998. Department of History & Art History, University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Department Seminar].

2013

Chapter in Book - Research

Radner, H., & Smith, N. (2013). Fashion, feminism and the neo-feminist ideal: From Coco Chanel to Jennifer Lopez. In S. Bruzzi & P. Church Gibson (Eds.), Fashion cultures revisited: Theories, explorations and analysis. (pp. 275-286). Abingdon, UK: Routledge.

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N. (2013/2014). [Review of the exhibition Art and neuroscience]. Context, 27, 56-60.

Smith, N. (2013/2014). [Review of the exhibition The living room, an instillation in the Art and Money exhibition]. Context, 27, 52-55.

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2013, March). WOW Now: The NZ Wearable Art Awards 25 years on. Verbal presentation at the 12th Annual Symposium of the Costume and Textile Association of New Zealand (CTANZ), Auckland, New Zealand.

Smith, N. (2013, November). Dale Austen: A modern girl in the New Zealand context. Verbal presentation at the New Zealand Historical Association Biennial Conference, Dunedin, New Zealand.

2012

Chapter in Book - Research

Webster, E., & Smith, N. (2012). Black as a fashionable colour. In D. de Pont (Ed.), Black: The history of black in fashion, society and culture in New Zealand. (pp. 80-101). Auckland, New Zealand: Penguin.

Journal - Research Other

Smith, N. (2012). [Review of the exhibition Definite cuts]. Context, 24, 32-34.

Smith, N. (2012). [Review of the exhibition Memory & fabric]. Context, 24, 39-40.

Smith, N. (2012/2013). [Review of the exhibition INDIGNATION!]. Context, 25, 66-68.

Smith, N. (2012/2013). [Review of the exhibition Artifact]. Context, 25, 61-62.

Smith, N. (2012/2013). [Review of the exhibition WOW: But let's not forget the history]. Context, 25, 53-57.

Conference Contribution - Published proceedings: Abstract

Smith, N. (2012). NOM*d, food and fashion: Establishing a critical distance from the '...Mess'. Proceedings of the Art & Food Symposium. Retrieved from http://www.otago.ac.nz/foodscience/pdfs/foodandartprogramme.pdf

Exhibition

Smith, N. (co-curator), & Radner, H. (co-curator) (2012, 1 February-25 March). NOM*d: The Art of Fashion. Whangarei Museum, Whangarei, New Zealand. [Exhibition].

2011

Edited Book - Research

Radner, H., & Smith, N. (Eds.). (2011). NOM*d: The art of fashion. Dunedin and Gore, New Zealand: Centre for Research on National Identity, University of Otago, and the Eastern Southland Gallery, 82p.

Chapter in Book - Research

Smith, N., & Radner, H. (2011). NOM*d: Conceptual couture in Dunedin. In H. Radner & N. Smith (Eds.), NOM*d: The art of fashion. (pp. 13-34). Dunedin and Gore, New Zealand: Centre for Research on National Identity, University of Otago, and the Eastern Southland Gallery.

Exhibition

Radner, H. (co-curator), & Smith, N. (co-curator) (2011). NOM*d: The art of fashion. Eastern Southland Gallery, Gore, New Zealand.

2010

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2010, November-December). At home in ″New York Everyday″: The modern girl in Rudall Hayward's “A daughter of Dunedin″. Verbal presentation at the XVth Biennial Conference of the Film and History Association of Australia and New Zealand: Cinema, Modernity and Modernism, Sydney, Australia.

Smith, N. (2010, November). At home in 'New York Everyday': The Modern Girl in Rudall Hayward's ″A daughter of Dunedin″ (1928). Verbal presentation at the Cultures, Histories and Identities in Film, Media and Literature Research Network Postgraduate Research Colloquium: The Modern Girl: From the Twentieth to the Twenty-First Century, Dunedin, New Zealand.

Other Research Output

Radner, H. & N. Smith, (2010, November). NOM*d conceptual fashion. Otago Polytechnic, Dunedin, New Zealand. [Public Seminar].

2009

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N., & Radner, H. (2009, August-September). NOM*d: Conceptual fashion: A study in visual style, from Dunedin to the international scene. Verbal presentation at the New Zealand's National Identity Research Colloquium: Fact or Fiction? Dunedin, New Zealand.

2008

Conference Contribution - Published proceedings: Abstract

Smith, N. (2008). Dressing down Al Shaw's anxieties: The 'Kiwi bloke' in crisis in Roger Donaldson's Smash palace. In C. Fowler & R. Simmons (Eds.), Proceedings of the XIVth Biennial Conference of the Film and History Association of Australia and New Zealand (Vol. 1: Refereed Abstracts). (pp. 68-69). Dunedin, New Zealand: Department of Film, Media and Communication, University of Otago. [Abstract]

Conference Contribution - Verbal presentation and other Conference outputs

Smith, N. (2008, March). New Zealand poster competitions of the early 1900s and the discourse of imperialism. Verbal presentation at the 7th Annual Symposium of the New Zealand Costume and Textile Section of the Auckland Museum Institute, Dunedin, New Zealand.

2004

Journal - Research Article

Smith, N. (2004). The wearables and the Montana World of Wearable Art™ Awards: What it is and what it means. Journal of New Zealand Art History, 25, 33-44.

Conference Contribution - Published proceedings: Full paper

Smith, N. (2004). Conceptual couturiers and the flight from art fashion. In M. Doropoulos, A. Farren & S. Worden (Eds.), Proceedings of the Space Between: Textiles, Art, Design, Fashion, Volume 2. [CD-ROM] Perth: Curtin University of Technology. [Full Paper]